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Conheça seus cabelos

Por Amanda Gomes - 22/09/2016
3 minutos para ler

Um fio de cabelo é constituído por três partes: a cutícula,o córtex e a medula.
A parte mais externa é a cutícula, formada por 8 a 10 camadas de células achatadas e coesas, cheias de queratina. Quanto mais fechada e coesa são essas camadas mais uniforme é a reflexão da luz e consequentemente mais brilhante são os fios dos cabelos. Por ser a camada mais externa, a cutícula sofre mais com as agressões como sol, vento, escova, etc.

A parte intermediária dos fios é composta pelo córtex, que corresponde a praticamente 90% da massa capilar. A qualidade da córtex influencia muito na textura e a maciez dos fios. É o córtex que dá o formato aos fios, por causas das ligações químicas entre as moléculas. Quando essas ligações são rompidas, os cabelos podem mudar de forma.

E a parte mais interna é composta por células cheias de glicogênio, que vão se esvaziando e se tornam células vazias, vacuolizadas.

A cutícula dos fios é a parte que sofre mais agressões. As maiores queixas são pontas-duplas, cabelos porosos, difíceis de pentear, quebradiços, eriçados. Quando os fios estão saudáveis eles conseguem preservar as moléculas de água e proteína seladoras em seu interior, fazendo com que ele fique maleável, hidratado e com brilho.

Nos cabelos danificados as cutículas permanecem abertas, isso faz com que o fio perca umidade, brilho e resistência. Os fios quimicamente tratados ficam hidrófilos ou porosos, isso quer dizer que sua capacidade de armazenar água em seu interior é maior do que a dos fios normais.

Assim como a pele, os cabelos também precisam de proteção solar. Os raios ultravioletas do sol destroem a queratina da cutícula, deixando os fios vulneráveis. Em contato com o córtex do cabelo, os raios UV queimam a melanina. Uma opção é usar produtos que contenham filtro solar, hidratar os cabelos após a exposição e usar bonés ou chapéus sempre que possível.

Os CABELOS LISOS são típicos de etnias mongólicas, orientais, esquimós e indígenas. Se você fizer um corte transversal nestes fios eles apresentarão uma forma arredondada e a queratina é distribuída uniformemente pelo fio.

Já os CABELOS ONDULADOS são típicos dos caucasianos, mas podem ser encontrados em diversas etnias. No corte transversal os fios possuem formato ovalado, a queratina é distribuída irregularmente concentrando-se em uma das extremidades, mais do que na outra.

E por fim, os CABELOS CRESPOS, comuns na etnia negra, possui formato elíptico, bem achatado, e a distribuição da queratina é irregular”

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