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Descolorir o cabelo: quais cuidados você deve ter para evitar danificar os fios?

Por Amanda Gomes - 26/12/2017
7 minutos para ler

Quem nunca quis clarear o tom dos cabelos ou ficar loira? A tonalidade, que faz sucesso entre mulheres de todas as idades, é linda, mas o processo de descolorir cabelos é agressivo e deve ser feito com cuidado, para causar o mínimo de danos aos fios.

É preciso escolher um profissional bem preparado, que utilize materiais de qualidade, além de tomar muito cuidado com o cabelo antes, durante e depois de descolorir. Mas não se preocupe: vamos fazer um passo a passo para descomplicar tudo isso. Continue lendo para saber mais sobre cuidados para descolorir!

O processo de descolorir o cabelo

Ao fazer uma descoloração, a escama protetora do fio (cutícula) é “aberta” para a retirada da melanina, e, junto dela, o cabelo perde um pouco da massa capilar e muitos nutrientes (cimento intercelular). Nesse sentido, ocorre um inchaço dessas fibras, que ficam bem permeáveis.

 Para facilitar, listei todos os passos do procedimento. Confira!

Antes de descolorir

Você deve confiar o trabalho ao seu cabeleireiro, afinal, ele deve avaliar a saúde dos fios, testar a elasticidade e a resistência deles. O teste de mecha também é bem-vindo antes ou no dia da coloração, para alcançar o tom desejado com a certeza de que não teremos quebra química.

Caso seus cabelos não passem no teste de mechas ou não tenham resistência suficiente, desista do procedimento por enquanto e reforce a nutrição e reconstrução dos fios. 

Se tudo estiver ok, na semana anterior à descoloração, você deve preparar os fios para receber a química. Faça uma rotina de reconstrução lipídica e umectação, deixando-os na melhor condição possível. 

Ainda, uma análise mais profunda pode ser feita com o intuito de identificar todas as informações necessárias para realizar o procedimento de forma segura. Conheça um pouco mais sobre o método!

Análise dos fios

É essencial que o seu cabelo seja avaliado por um dermatologista capilar antes de ser descolorido, para que ele se certifique de que os fios estão saudáveis, afinal, a descoloração exige que as madeixas estejam fortes, visto que o processo é danoso aos fios por lesionar as hastes. Caso contrário, eles poderão ficar elásticos e enfraquecidos após o processo.

Algumas das informações que podem ser recolhidas são elasticidade, resistência, porosidade dos fios e qualidade da haste, além de identificar quais foram as químicas realizadas anteriormente, para verificar a necessidade de fazer um tratamento mais profundo antes do procedimento.

Por fim, lembre-se de que é recomendável fazer a descoloração com o cabelo sujo e seco, porque a oleosidade natural do couro cabeludo vai protegê-lo dos produtos utilizados. 

Durante o procedimento

O primeiro passo ao descolorir cabelos é fazer o teste de mecha, pois ele demonstra como suas madeixas vão reagir ao produto e quanto tempo será necessário para alcançar o tom desejado. Para isso, o cabeleireiro separa uma quantidade de cabelo que tenha representatividade e aplica a mesma sequência que pretende seguir no restante dos fios.

Depois, anota o tempo necessário para alcançar o resultado e testa a qualidade dos fios ao final do procedimento. Se tudo der certo, os cabelos estão aprovados para serem descoloridos. 

Tenha certeza de que seu cabeleireiro escolheu produtos de qualidade e não muito fortes. A água oxigenada com volume alto, apesar de descolorir mais rapidamente, prejudica muito a saúde dos fios.

Por exemplo, quem deseja um tom castanho claro ou um loiro escuro, deve optar pela água oxigenada de 30 volumes, que clareia até três tons do cabelo. Agora, para quem quer um efeito mais claro, escolher a de 40 volumes, que clareia até quatro tons, pode ser uma alternativa.

Mas atenção: quanto mais alto o volume, mais loiro fica e, consequentemente, mais dano pode causar aos fios, já que intensifica o processo de clareamento. Uma boa opção para quem busca fios mais claros é utilizar um emulsificador no lugar da água oxigenada, pois agride menos o cabelo e ainda traz o resultado desejado.

Outro ponto importante para prestar atenção é a quantidade de amônia no produto escolhido, já que, quanto mais amônia na fórmula, mais claro o cabelo fica. Isso interfere diretamente no volume necessário, já que produtos de volume 30 podem ter mais amônia do que os de 40 e, consequentemente, descolorir mais com menos agressão aos fios.

Por isso, é muito importante conversar com o seu cabeleireiro e não realizar o procedimento a qualquer custo. Ao finalizar a descoloração, hidrate o cabelo logo em seguida, para que ele já comece a se recuperar dos danos sofridos.

Depois da descoloração

Quem tem cabelo descolorido sabe: a nutrição é a sua melhor amiga. Agora que você tem tons mais claros, crie o hábito de aplicar uma máscara hidratante pelo menos uma vez por semana. Opte por óleos e manteigas orgânicos, sem sulfatos e parabenos, aplicando-os uma noite por semana no comprimento e pontas.

Ainda, lembre-se de que os produtos com queratina devem ser utilizados com cautela para não causar endurecimento dos fios, e os protetores térmicos antes da escova e piastra são mandatórios.  

Na descoloração, o dano oxidativo é inerente ao processo. Para clarear os cabelos, temos que “destruir” a melanina. Infelizmente, outras partes dos fios também são danificadas e as pontas duplas podem aparecer para acabar com a festa. Não deixe de aparar e manter o corte sempre lindo!

Por fim, para garantir que o seu loiro esteja sempre no tom desejado, faça o uso de shampoo roxo a cada quinze dias e de shampoo e condicionador com o pH entre 5 e 6.

O que evitar

Realizar o procedimento em casa

A descoloração é um processo químico, que altera a estrutura dos fios e danifica o cabelo ao liberar os nutrientes e vitaminas necessários para mantê-lo forte e brilhante. Realizar o processo em casa pode trazer diversas consequências, sejam elas em relação à coloração final ou até à queda e perda de cabelo. Por isso, procure sempre um bom profissional.

Não hidratar os fios

Como você já deve ter percebido, realizar tratamentos que restauram a saúde dos fios depois de descolorir é fundamental para evitar a quebra e o enfraquecimento do cabelo. Além disso, hidratar o cabelo com frequência e fazer um cronograma capilar ajuda a manter o loiro por mais tempo, preservando a coloração.

Não ter paciência

Você lembra que comentei anteriormente sobre a importância de ter confiança no seu cabeleireiro e de estabelecer uma comunicação clara e aberta antes, durante e depois do procedimento? Essa pequena atitude é fundamental para, também, desenvolver a paciência durante o processo, já que pode ser demorado, dependendo do resultado desejado.

Para que o ressecamento e enfraquecimento do cabelo seja reduzido, o ideal é realizar a descoloração com pequenos intervalos, como duas sessões de 25 minutos. Assim, o dano causado pode ser diminuído, permitindo que alguns nutrientes permaneçam nas madeixas.

Ter fios loiros e brilhantes é o sonho de muitas mulheres, mas é preciso ter cuidados para descolorir, evitando que a sua saúde física e emocional seja afetada. Lembre-se de consultar um médico qualificado antes de descolorir cabelos e procure um cabeleireiro de confiança, que realize o processo com expertise.

E então, gostou das minhas dicas? Ficou com alguma dúvida? Deixe um comentário abaixo, ficarei feliz em ajudar!

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