Descubra 4 fatos sobre relaxamento capilar

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De acordo com dados da Sociedade Brasileira de Dermatologia (SBD), 30% de todas as mulheres do mundo sofrerão com algum problema relacionado a calvície. Os motivos são vários: problemas hormonais, alterações genéticas, maus hábitos alimentares, entre outros fatores.

Uma dúvida muito recorrente é se os produtos químicos causam queda de cabelo ou precipitam a calvície. Caso você já tenha sofrido com esse problema, certamente já cogitou a hipótese de ser provocada por algum produto, não é mesmo?

É normal encontrarmos um ou outro fio de cabelo no ralo do banheiro ou na escova. Os cabelos têm um ciclo de vida que chega ao fim a cada 8 anos. Mas é bom ficar de olho caso esse volume aumente rapidamente. Um dos motivos da queda de cabelo exagerada pode ser o uso abusivo de químicas capilares.

É muito importante para a saúde capilar prevenir os danos causados por procedimentos químicos, saber recuperar os fios já danificados e, assim, evitar a calvície. Para saber tudo sobre o assunto, acompanhe o post a seguir!

Saiba quais são os principais produtos químicos que causam queda de cabelo

Na saga para estar bonita e cuidar dos cabelos, muitas mulheres investem no alisamento e modelagem. O que poucas sabem é que esse tipo de medida pode quebrar os fios, deixando-os mais fracos e fazendo com que se soltem com mais facilidade. Veja os principais vilões que podem prejudicar a estrutura capilar.

Tioglicolato

O tioglicolato é um sal do ácido tioglicólico muito usado para os alisamentos de cabelo. Ele pode ser uma ótima solução para quem tem cabelos encaracolados, mas não necessariamente para os crespos. Ao utilizar esse produto, deve-se evitar contato com o couro cabeludo pelo risco de queimadura. É bom deixar claro que, mesmo quando aplicado corretamente, há chances de ocorrer quebra química nos fios.

Além disso, se você não ficar satisfeita com o resultado, pode enfrentar dificuldades para mudar a situação. Como a substância quebra as ligações de enxofre entre os aminoácidos da queratina, os cabelos têm o formato modificado definitivamente. Para voltar a estrutura original dos fios, é necessário esperar que o cabelo cresça novamente.

Hidróxido de sódio

Esse produto é a famosa soda cáustica, muito utilizada em processos químicos diversos, como a fabricação de papel, detergente, sabão, etc. No ramo da beleza é utilizada em cabelos com alto grau de encrespamento. Nesses casos o alisamento precisa de produtos mais fortes para romper as ligações de enxofre dos aminoácidos.

O processo pelo qual o hidróxido de sódio age se chama lanolização. Além de romper as pontes de enxofre, a soda retira aminoácidos da queratina (proteína) e forma uma estrutura completamente nova. Como tem ação corrosiva, a substância pode provocar coceira, vermelhidão, descamação, ardência, queimadura e queda dos fios quando entra em contato com o couro cabeludo.

Existem outras substâncias similares ao hidróxido de sódio, como é o caso do hidróxido de guanidina. Ela age nos fios de maneira muito semelhante. Apresenta os mesmos riscos e é tão prejudicial quanto o hidróxido de sódio. Portanto, não se deixe enganar!

Formaldeído

Também conhecido como formol, o formaldeído é a menor molécula da família dos aldeídos, porém, a mais potente e a com odor mais forte. Apesar de fornecer um belo resultado estético para os cabelos, pode causar queda dos fios nos dias seguintes ao procedimento.

Ele é proibido pela ANVISA pelo fato de ser um aldeído altamente volátil, que causa irritação das vias aéreas superiores e inferiores, além de ser tóxico para a medula óssea.

Gluteraldeído

É outra substância da família dos aldeídos. Sua molécula é maior do que a molécula do formol e menos potente. É usada nas progressivas para impermeabilizar os fios. Em contrapartida, quando entra em contato com o couro cabeludo, pode causar irritabilidade e alergia, além de queda de cabelo temporária.

Ácido glioxílico

Também é da família do formol e, muitas vezes, tem o nome mascarado nas fórmulas como carbocisteína. É uma junção de aminoácidos, motivo pelo qual muitos salões alegam que fazem progressiva sem formol, à base de aminoácidos. Sabemos que a interação de uma substância com o corpo é algo muito subjetivo. A alergia e a irritabilidade no couro cabeludo podem não acontecer. Mas isso é como uma loteria!

Reverta a situação! 7 dicas para prevenir a queda de cabelo e melhorar a saúde dos fios

1. Invista em profissionais capacitados para fazer tratamentos capilares

Saúde capilar é coisa séria! Portanto, procure profissionais especializados e converse sobre suas expectativas em relação aos procedimentos que você gostaria de fazer.

Também é importante levar em consideração o que o profissional tem a dizer em relação ao tratamento desejado. Muitas vezes, a cliente quer realizar um procedimento muito invasivo, com produtos nocivos para a saúde, e cabe ao profissional orientar outras formas de atuação, mais saudáveis e eficientes. Bom senso faz parte de qualquer tratamento!

2. Mantenha a hidratação dos fios

Cultivar uma boa saúde capilar também inclui hidratar os fios com frequência. Você pode fazer o procedimento em casa ou procurar um salão de confiança — o importante é utilizar produtos certos e manter a prática com a frequência recomendada para seu tipo de cabelo.

3. Fique de olho nas substâncias utilizadas

É sempre bom acompanhar os rótulos dos produtos utilizados, tanto no salão quanto em casa. Informe-se sobre os componentes da fórmula, compare as opções e procure sempre utilizar substâncias que não agridem o couro cabeludo.

De acordo com a Anvisa, os produtos alisantes são permitidos, mas machucam muito os fios e facilmente partem os cabelos. Já os aldeídos das progressivas deixam os fios com um brilho único, mas são irritativos para as vias aéreas e tóxicos para o corpo. Escolha seus produtos com consciência!

4. Faça testes antes de aplicar o produto no cabelo

O teste em mechas de cabelo é imprescindível para avaliar a resistência do fio ao produto que foi escolhido. Selecione uma mecha que represente melhor a qualidade geral dos fios, aplique o produto que foi selecionado e faça todo o protocolo como recomendado. A medida que o produto for agindo a resistência da mecha tem que ser testada tracionando-a longitudinalmente. Caso os fios fiquem muito elásticos ou se quebrem, o produto não deve ser utilizado. Esse teste deve ser feito dentro do salão pelo profissional escolhido e com experiência.

5. Use produtos de qualidade

Às vezes, o barato pode sair caro, não é mesmo? Por isso, não se deixe levar pelas “dicas das amigas”,  pelo “preço sedutor” ou pela propaganda do produto. Quem vai escolher seus produtos é seu médico dermatologista e seu cabeleireiro. Preze pela qualidade!

6. Respeite o intervalo entre um procedimento e outro

Nunca repita aplicações químicas em um curto período de tempo. Segundo o hair designer Maurício Morelli, todos os procedimentos químicos afetam a estrutura da fibra capilar. Portanto, é preciso um tempo para que ocorra a reconstrução desses fios, deixando-os preparados para um novo procedimento, no futuro.

“Com base na textura, elasticidade, porosidade, resistência e densidade dos fios, o profissional definirá o intervalo necessário para a próxima química”, afirma Maurício. Relembrando: sempre consulte um especialista antes de refazer qualquer procedimento.

7. Escolha adequadamente as colorações

Os agentes descolorantes são grandes vilões quando o assunto é produtos químicos que causam queda de cabelo. Devido ao peróxido de hidrogênio (também conhecido como água oxigenada) contido no produto, a estrutura do fio pode ser alterada, ocasionando ressecamento e quebra química. E é impossível colorir ou descolorir sem os agentes oxidantes pois são eles que agem nos pigmentos.

Quando os fios são danificados, não há processo que reverta totalmente a situação. É possível melhorar o aspecto com técnicas de reestruturação hidríca e lipídica. Entretanto, a restauração só consegue ser efetiva a partir da remoção dos fios comprometidos — ou seja, seria preciso cortar o cabelo ou deixá-lo crescer naturalmente.

Em algumas situações, em que o couro cabeludo está muito danificado e a saúde dos fios está comprometida, o melhor a se fazer é recusar procedimentos químicos por um tempo. Por que não assumir os cachos? Ou, então, que tal manter a tonalidade natural de seus fios? Deixar de lado os padrões estéticos por um tempo e assumir a beleza própria! pode ser uma experiência reveladora!

Se você ainda tem dúvidas se outros produtos químicos causam queda de cabelo ou quer saber mais sobre os procedimentos para recuperação dos fios e saúde capilar, deixe um comentário no post! Será um prazer responder a sua questão!

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