Escova progressiva e queda de cabelo: entenda essa relação

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A transformação da textura dos fios crespos em lisos está entre os procedimentos mais requisitados nos salões de beleza. Porém, escova progressiva e queda de cabelo muitas vezes andam juntas, já que o tipo de produto, a habilidade do profissional e as condições dos fios são primordiais para um bom resultado.

As escovas progressivas a base de aldeídos, como o formol, o ácido glioxílico ou o glutaraldeído, causam o enfraquecimento das madeixas, fazendo-as caírem. E os perigos não param por aí. Os aldeídos podem ser considerados, ainda, cancerígenos, já que o uso deles pode irritar o nariz e a garganta, assim como intoxicar a medula óssea.

Deste modo, os clientes e os profissionais dos salões colocam a saúde em risco apesar de usarem máscaras, pois o formol se trata de uma molécula extremamente volátil.

No entanto, você pode estar se perguntando por que ainda há quem utilize esses produtos. A resposta é simples, porque a comercialização e a aplicação do tratamento não são proibidos, desde que estejam em conformidade com as normas da Anvisa.

Qual é a quantidade permitida de formol?

O formol, também conhecido como formaldeído, é a menor molécula da família dos aldeídos. Ele é capaz de fazer uma impermeabilização na qual os cabelos ficam com aspecto envernizado e permanecem lisos por dois a quatro meses.

Na concentração permitida pela Anvisa, o formol pode ser usado a 0,2% (como conservante), entretanto, nessa concentração ele não tem a capacidade de alisar os fios. 

Escova progressiva e queda de cabelo, como evitar a relação?

Vale ressaltar que a maioria das mulheres ama o resultado e não abre mão do procedimento com formol. Mas e se o resultado acabar com os fios e fazê-los cair, o que fazer? Nessa situação, seus cabelos merecerão cuidados intensivos, ou seja, não economize no shampoo e no condicionador, essenciais na recuperação.

Já as máscaras, que devem ser específicas para esse tipo de situação, precisam ser aplicadas no comprimento e nas pontas. A frequência do uso de máscaras somente poderá ser indicada por cabeleireiro experiente.

Estou com irritação no couro cabeludo por ter feito progressiva?

Ao fazer uma escova progressiva com uma quantidade de formol a mais do que o liberado pela Anvisa, você aumenta o risco de ter irritação no couro cabeludo e queda de cabelos.

Assim como essa molécula enrijece os fios, em excesso ela impede que a água, os aminoácidos e outros nutrientes penetrem nos cabelos. E isso fica ainda mais drástico quando se trata de madeixas danificadas, desidratadas ou que passaram por outras químicas.

É válido consultar o profissional para sugerir as maneiras de hidratar e preparar os fios antes de qualquer escova progressiva, pois o estado em que se encontram os cabelos conta muito no resultado do procedimento e também nas consequências que ele possa causar.

Caso a queda de cabelo ou a descamação do couro cabeludo estejam anormais, consulte um dermatologista o quanto antes para que ele sugira as melhores maneiras de reverter a situação.

Tratamentos que podem substituir a escova progressiva

Há alternativas para que os cabelos fiquem radiantes sem a necessidade do formol. O mercado da beleza está sempre se inovando com tratamentos para todas as necessidades. Confira alguns deles!

Blindagem Capilar

É um tipo de reconstrução profunda que auxilia na recuperação dos fios. Além de ser feita de forma rápida, com duração de aproximadamente uma hora, após o processo é permitido lavar ou até prender os cabelos.

O resultado é um cabelo mais forte, liso, disciplinado, com as pontas mais saudáveis e blindado de novas agressões externas. Se a conservação for feita corretamente e com os produtos corretos, o efeito chega a durar até 3 meses.

Escova de Óleo de Argan

É uma excelente opção para os cabelos que passaram por muitas químicas, já que o óleo de Argan é um hidratante bastante potente e ainda tem a ação oxidante. Seja coloração, relaxamento, descoloração ou madeixas extremamente danificadas, o resultado é o de fios saudáveis e naturais.

Esse tratamento suaviza o volume, domina o frizz e protege os cabelos, porque essa escova tem como princípio ativo o ácido glioxílico, que tem PH ácido e sela as cutículas de modo eficiente.

A duração do procedimento no cabelo é de aproximadamente dois meses, se a manutenção for realizada de acordo com a orientação do cabeleireiro.

Selagem Capilar

Esta técnica também é reconstrutora dos cabelos, pois repõe a queratina perdida pelos fios. Assim como a progressiva, ela também é feita com a lavagem do shampoo antirresíduos, a aplicação do produto, seguida da escova e chapinha. Entretanto, no lugar do formol são utilizadas ampolas à base de aminoácidos.

Todo esse processo, aliado ao poder da queratina, faz com que as madeixas fiquem alisadas e nutridas, resultando em um aspecto viçoso. A durabilidade do procedimento é bem menor.

Escova de Aminoácidos

Igualmente à selagem, este tratamento também tem o objetivo de fechar as fissuras dos fios por meio da reposição dos nutrientes. E este é mais um procedimento que permite sair do salão de beleza com os cabelos lisos, brilhantes, sedosos e com uma aparência natural.

A diferença desse tipo de escova para as demais está no choque térmico: depois da chapinha, os fios são lavados com água bem gelada, fazendo com que as madeixas fiquem domadas.

O efeito dura semanas, mas é sempre importante consultar o profissional para saber quais produtos utilizar ou o que evitar fazer nos cabelos para garantir o resultado por todo o período estipulado.

O que é mito e o que é verdade?

Abaixo listamos alguns mitos e verdades sobre a escova progressiva, acompanhe:

Todas as escovas progressivas alisam?

Verdade: Todas as escovas progressivas têm aldeído, seja formaldeído, glutaraldeído, ácido glioxílico etc., responsáveis por modificar a estrutura dos fios e alisar. 

É preciso ficar três dias sem lavar os cabelos?

Mito: Os cabelos podem e devem ser lavados normalmente logo após o fim do procedimento. 

Não se deve fazer escova progressiva em cabelos coloridos?

Verdade: Não é recomendável, porque as chances de quedas são grandes. Porém, se for arriscar, deve haver um espaço de tempo entre os dois procedimentos (alisamento e a tintura ou descoloração), para não prejudicar ainda mais os cabelos.

A progressiva hidrata os cabelos?

Mito: A função do procedimento é envernizar os fios. Caso queira unir nutrição com fios alisados, opte por outra técnica, como a Selagem Capilar.

Escova de chocolate, de flores, mel, marroquina e tantas outras têm diferenças nos resultados?

Depende: O que muda de uma para a outra é a fragrância que elas tem e o aroma que fica nos cabelos após o término da aplicação. Entretanto, vale observar que quanto mais forte for o cheiro, maior é a concentração do alisante.

Ficou ainda alguma dúvida sobre a relação entre escova progressiva e queda de cabelo? Deixe o seu comentário!

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