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Essa é uma opção para quem quer reduzir o volume da raiz e abrir os cachos. No caso da transição capilar, o objetivo do relaxamento é auxiliar no processo de retorno do cabelo alisado para o natural.
A técnica utiliza 3 ativos como bases alisantes: o tioglicolato de amônio, a guanidina e o hidróxido de sódio, presentes em produtos autorizados pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (Anvisa) e dos quais vamos falar mais adiante. Todos eles agem de maneira semelhante no fio. A escolha deve levar em consideração a necessidade e a estrutura de cada tipo de cabelo.
Para escolher o melhor produto, é necessário analisar o nível de ondulação do cabelo, o quão fragilizada está sua fibra e o nível de alisamento que se quer atingir, para só então decidir qual é o melhor tratamento. Esse diagnóstico deve ser feito por pessoas capacitadas e especialistas, a partir de uma consulta dermatológica, por exemplo, com uma médico tricologista.
Quais são os métodos de relaxamento capilar?
Entre os produtos utilizados atualmente para o relaxamento capilar e que têm seu uso autorizado pela Anvisa, estão o tioglicolato de amônio, o hidróxido de sódio, o hidróxido de lítio, o carbonato de guanidina e o hidróxido de cálcio.
De acordo com estudos da Universidade do Paraná, duas dessas bases — consideradas umas das mais antigas do mercado — se destacam: o tioglicolato e a guanidina. A seguir, vamos explicar um pouco das características de cada uma e quais são seus efeitos quanto utilizadas para o relaxamento dos fios.
Tioglicolato de amônio
Essa é uma das bases mais procuradas atualmente. Seu efeito consiste na quebra das pontes de dissulfeto de uma proteína chamada cistina, gerando a formação de dois aminoácidos chamados cisteína.
Dessa forma a queratina incha, tornando-se maleável e facilitando o alisamento dos fios. O tempo de aplicação do produto é diretamente proporcional ao grau de alisamento alcançado. O ph é sempre básico.
Apesar de ter uma concentração maior do que outros químicos, esse é um tipo de alisamento muito menos agressivo e com um dos processos mais rápidos.
Carbonato de guanidina
Esse tipo de alisante utiliza dois ativos em sua composição: o hidróxido de cálcio e o carbonato de guanidina. Misturados, os dois compostos formam o hidróxido, considerado o mais ameno dos produtos de alisamento. É importante ressaltar que se a mistura não for realizada de forma correta, com as proporções exatas, o efeito é quebrado e o alisamento não ocorre.
O carbonato de guanidina é indicado para couros cabeludos mais sensíveis.
Que produtos são proibidos?
Assim como existem produtos liberados para o uso, o relaxamento de fios também deve ser feito livre de substâncias químicas proibidas pela Anvisa. Uma delas é o formol, conhecido por seu uso frequente em salões de beleza.
No passado, as escovas progressivas com formol em sua composição se tornaram um dos mais famosos métodos de alisamento capilar. Seu uso foi proibido devido à necessidade de empregar altas concentrações do químico para atingir o efeito desejado — acima de 5%. Esse uso acabou sendo associado a malefícios para a saúde, principalmente irritação das vias aéreas superiores e inferiores e risco de intoxicação da medula óssea com quadros de leucemia.
Em 1995, o formol foi considerado uma substância cancerígena pela Organização Mundial da Saúde (OMS), permitindo que produtos cosméticos capilares contenham uma concentração de apenas 0,2% do composto químico, utilizado apenas como conservante e banindo sua utilização no relaxamento capilar e em outros processos. Infelizmente, alguns salões ainda realizavam o uso proibido de formol em seus serviços, oferecendo riscos aos seus funcionários e clientes.
Por isso, lembre-se sempre de escolher profissionais éticos, que utilizam produtos legalizados e de boa qualidade. Pensando nisso, a Clínica do cabelo Regis e Maia está desenvolvendo um produto para alinhamento capilar temporário, já aprovado pela Anvisa, e com método exclusivo de aplicação, feito com o auxílio de um médico dermatologista e uma terapeuta capilar — tudo para tornar a experiência do usuário ainda melhor.
Quais são os principais cuidados com o relaxamento capilar?
Mesmo com a utilização de produtos certificados e que não apresentam riscos para a sua saúde, é necessário tomar alguns cuidados durante o relaxamento capilar — tanto na preparação das madeixas quanto no tratamento do cabelo. Pensando nisso, listei aqui alguns fatos importantes sobre esse processo. Confira!
1. Faça o teste de mecha
Como já mencionado, cada base alisante é mais apropriada para um tipo de cabelo. O hidróxido de sódio, por exemplo, deve ser utilizado no tratamento de fios mais grossos ou resistentes. A guanidina, por ser considerada mais leve, é indicada para cabelos sensíveis e cachos de textura média a fina.
Por isso, o teste de mecha é fundamental para indicar qual alisante deve ser utilizado no seu tratamento. O produto errado pode não só produzir um efeito aquém do esperado, mas danificar o cabelo e provocar a quebra indesejável dos fios.
2. Preocupe-se com a hidratação do cabelo
Cabelos crespos e cacheados já são naturalmente mais ressecados devido ao formato dos fios. Por isso, é essencial garantir seu fortalecimento para que estejam resistentes o suficiente para receber o alisamento. Adote um cronograma capilar que auxilie nesse processo, combinando as etapas de hidratação, nutrição e reconstrução do fio.
Após o alisamento, a hidratação se torna ainda mais importante, já que a química acentua o ressecamento e remove dos cabelos componentes responsáveis por reter a água, como o 18-MEA. Assim, recomenda-se também o uso de óleos naturais após a aplicação do hidratante diário, selando os fios e impedindo a evaporação.
3. Respeite o intervalo entre as aplicações
O cabelo cresce, em média, 1 a 2cm por mês. Por isso, o intervalo entre um relaxamento e outro deve ser de pelo menos 3 meses. Esse é o tempo necessário para o cabelo crescer o suficiente, de forma que novos fios sejam facilmente reconhecidos. Lembre-se: aplicar o produto novamente sobre o cabelo já relaxado causa quebra química.
4. Pesquise sobre a interação com outras químicas
Uma dúvida comum de quem relaxa os fios é se pode ou não pintar os cabelos após o tratamento. A questão é que a química usada no relaxamento capilar fragiliza parcialmente a haste.Nunca devemos trocar um alisante por outro. A interação das duas substâncias é catastrófica!
Em relação à coloração, é só esperar 1 semana…
Um erro na escolha do produto ou na aplicação pode causar danos difíceis de reparar, sendo necessário consultar um especialista em dermatologia capilar. Tendo isso em vista, é importantíssimo escolher um profissional capacitado para fazer o tratamento.
Embora não façam mal à saúde como o formol, os ativos do relaxamento capilar podem danificar os fios e queimar o couro cabeludo, devido ao aumento do pH.
Se você quer entender ainda mais sobre o processo de relaxamento capilar e buscar as soluções mais seguras e eficientes para você, entre em contato com a Clínica do cabelo!
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